La Comida

Let's talk for a moment about food. When we came to Barcelona the last time, for our honeymoon, we somehow managed to eat poorly at almost every meal. How did we manage to eat bad food in Spain for six straight nights? I haven't the slightest idea. I will say, though, that we stayed that time near the most touristy area and ended up in places that probably cater mostly to tourist crowds. Always the kiss of death, food-wise.

So, I'll say this: when we said before that the food of Barcelona was a disappointment, we were wrong. Yes, the Biggest Food Snobs Who Ever Lived can admit that they might have been, perhaps, quick to judge a whole city.

This time- we have been quite pleasantly surprised. And that's an understatement. In three days, we've already dined quite well, and have barely spent any money at all. Our dinners have consisted of bread, cheese, and olives at home, topped off with lovely sparkling cava and bright fresh fruit. Cava is cheaper here than water! We've had two lunches out at restaurants. The first was a tapas place with my new co-workers. There, I had one of the tastiest things I've ever eaten: tiny little fried fishes-- Pesadito Frito, to be exact. Perfectly seasoned and fried. Like a fishy little french fry, but softer. Once, long ago, I ate little fried fish like this at an incredible restaurant with my parents in Italy. I don't remember even what city it was in- but I remember those fish. I've been looking for them ever since. Who would have guessed that would be hiding in Barcelona!

But yesterday was our Blow Your Mind meal-- at a little restaurant in a beautiful square in the old city, called La Candela (the restaurant, not the square). Wow. I've included here a picture of my main course-- part two of a "Menu del Dia" which included also carrot soup, coffee, wine, and dessert. This plate you see pictured here was hands down one of the best things I've ever eaten. That fish- called Lumpino- was perfectly cooked-- tender, flaky, buttery, perfectly salted, and with a hint of some kind of herb. AMAZING. The risoto on the left has langostines in it and tastes like ooey-gooey heaven.

For dessert? A 'bombe chocolate'-- sort of like a Fondant cake. Chocolate cake with the richest, creamiest, most wonderfully dark goo inside that melts to the plate when you cut it open. I think I might have almost wept when I took a bite. And I don't even like chocolate cake.

What's particularly amusing is that half way through this glorious meal, it dawned on me that Michael and I had, in fact, eaten in the same restaurant the last time. Maybe they changed chefs? Maybe the warmer weather has made us more inclined to like the food (our last visit was in January)?

On the Not Such Great News front: saw a group of young men try to rob two older British men on the metro yesterday. They didn't get anything, but the men were pretty shaken up. A word of warning to visitors to Barcelona-- try not to look like a tourist. And avoid large groups of young men who suddenly push against you for what seems like no reason.

But I must say the Barcelona metro is amazing! So easy to use and speedy. So clean! Fancy! Reminds us very much of the newer trains in the Paris metro.